By Sybille Bedford

This affectionate research of the Mexican mood is ''one of the main captivating trip books ever written.'' - The Atlantic per 30 days

Before returning to the outdated international after global struggle II, Sybille Bedford resolved to determine anything extra of the recent. ''I had a superb longing to move,'' she acknowledged, ''to listen one other language, devour new meals, to be in a rustic with an extended nasty historical past some time past and as little current background as possible.'' And so she set out for Mexico - and, by the way, to write down what Bruce Chatwin referred to as the easiest trip booklet of the 20th century, ''a publication of marvels, to be learn time and again and again.''

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Additional info for A Visit to Don Otavio: A Travellers Tale from Mexico

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22 {Page:23} Chapter Two M E S A D E L N O RT E – M E S A C E N T R A L – VA L L E D E M E X I C O Regardez, apre`s tout, c’est une pauvre terre I t is high morning. We wake to a fawn-coloured desert of sun-baked clay and stone. This is indeed a clean slate, a bare new world constructed of sparse ingredients – here and there a tall cactus like a candle, adobe huts homogeneous like molehills, and always one man walking, alone, along a ridge with a donkey. We are headed south and we are climbing.

I have no intention of leaving this entrancing shop. It is as clean as it is lavish, and they are so polite . . One might be at Fortnum’s. Only this is more expansive: that warm smell of roasting coffee and fresh bread. And the wines! Rows and rows of claret, pretty names and sonorous names of Deuxie`me Crus, Chaˆteau Gruaud-Larose-Sarget, Chaˆteau Pichon-Longueville, Chaˆteau Ducru-Beaucaillou, alas all are expensive. A tray of small hot pasties is brought in, mille feuilles bubbling with butter.

It is ready. ’ ‘We are not going to eat them at the same time. ’ ‘Sen˜ora: we must wait for the Prawns. ’ ‘Yes, Sen˜ora, first. ’ ‘At your taste, Sen˜ora. ’ We wait. Then the Terrine is brought over from the sideboard in the Stygian corner where it had been reposing, and here on its heels are the Prawns, sizzling. So much is clear now, everything is allowed to take its time but once your dinner is on its breathless way, there must be no pause. The custom must have ruined tempers and digestions.

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